Oval Cut Diamonds: The Complete Guide to Oval Engagement Rings
An oval cut diamond is a brilliant cut diamond with an elongated, softly rounded outline. It offers the sparkle of a round diamond in a longer shape that covers more of the finger, which is why so many couples start their search with oval engagement rings.
Choosing a good oval takes a little more care than choosing a round. From the diamond's proportions and bow tie effect to carat size, setting and wedding band, there are a few things worth knowing before you choose your stone.
What Is an Oval Cut Diamond?
An oval cut diamond has the sparkle of a round brilliant diamond, but with an elongated shape that gives it a little more presence on the finger. It is a popular choice for anyone who loves plenty of sparkle but wants something slightly different from a traditional round.
When choosing an oval, the way the diamond looks to your eye is especially important. Things like its proportions, how well it returns light and the strength of its bow tie can all affect how lively the diamond looks.
If you're new to choosing a diamond, our guide to the 4 Cs of a diamond explains the key things to look for.
Why Choose an Oval Shaped Engagement Ring?
An oval shaped engagement ring is a beautiful choice if you want a brilliant cut sparkle with plenty of presence on the hand. An oval diamond can look larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight, while its elongated shape can create the appearance of longer, slimmer fingers.
It is also a practical shape for everyday wear. An oval has no pointed corners to catch or chip easily, and it works beautifully across a range of setting styles.
Still deciding between the two most popular shapes? Our comparison of oval vs round engagement rings puts them side by side.
What Is the Best Ratio for an Oval Diamond?
There is no single best ratio for an oval diamond. It comes down to the proportions you like best, although many buyers prefer a length-to-width ratio between 1.35 and 1.50.
The ratio is calculated by dividing the diamond's length by its width. For example, an oval measuring 7.70 mm by 5.70 mm has a ratio of 1.35.
Below 1.35, an oval tends to look rounder and fuller, while above 1.50 it generally appears longer and more slender. Two diamonds with the same ratio can still look quite different, as one may have fuller shoulders or a different overall shape.
The best way to choose is to compare a few ovals side by side and see which proportions you prefer on your own hand.
The Oval Diamond Bow Tie Effect
The oval diamond bow tie is a darker area that can appear across the centre of the stone, creating a shape similar to a bow tie. Almost every oval diamond has some degree of bow tie, but its strength can vary significantly from one diamond to another.
A faint bow tie can add contrast and depth, while a very dark bow tie can make the centre of the diamond look less lively. The effect is caused by the way light interacts with the facets across the middle of an elongated diamond.
When choosing an oval, look at the diamond face up at arm's length in ordinary daylight and gently move it from side to side. In a lively, well cut oval, the bow tie should break up and sparkle as the stone moves.
The Best Settings for an Oval Diamond
Oval diamonds work beautifully in a range of engagement ring settings, including solitaire, halo, bezel, trilogy and east-west designs. Because an oval has no pointed corners, your choice can come down to the look you want and how much metal or additional diamond detail you prefer around the centre stone.
An oval solitaire engagement ring keeps the focus entirely on the centre diamond. Our Oval Madison holds the diamond in four claws on a fine rounded band.
Shop oval solitaire engagement rings
An oval halo engagement ring surrounds the centre with small diamonds, which makes it look larger. The Seamless Oval Halo is the classic version, while a hidden halo sits below the stone and shows only from the side.
An oval bezel engagement ring wraps the diamond's edge in a rim of metal, the most secure and lowest profile choice. The Eliana Oval Sculpted Bezel is a good example. For something more modern, an east west oval engagement ring such as our East West Oval Half Bezel turns the stone sideways across the finger.
Shop bezel set engagement rings
A trilogy setting adds a smaller diamond on each side of the centre stone. Tapered side stones can follow the curve of the oval beautifully, as seen in our Oval Diamond Trapezoid ring.
Which Metal Suits an Oval Engagement Ring?
Almost every metal works beautifully with an oval engagement ring. Yellow gold gives a warm, classic look, rose gold adds a soft blush, while white gold and platinum create a bright white frame around the diamond.
All Armans oval rings can be made in 18ct yellow, white or rose gold, or in platinum.
If you are choosing between the two white metals, read our comparison of white gold vs platinum.
What Wedding Band Goes With an Oval Engagement Ring?
A straight wedding band can work beautifully with an oval engagement ring when the setting sits high enough for the band to slide underneath. A lower setting, such as a bezel, may need a curved or custom fitted band to sit neatly alongside the engagement ring.
If you are already thinking about your wedding band when choosing your oval engagement ring, let your jeweller know. The height and design of the engagement ring can be considered from the beginning so you have more options when it comes time to choose your wedding band.
Lab Grown or Natural Oval Diamond?
Lab grown and natural oval diamonds are both real diamonds with the same hardness and sparkle. A natural oval is valued for its rarity, while a lab grown oval can give you more flexibility when it comes to size and design.
Whichever you choose, the proportions and bow tie are just as important. Take the time to compare the diamonds and choose one that looks bright and lively to your eye.
See our oval lab grown diamond engagement rings, or read our guide to lab grown diamonds.
Oval Engagement Ring FAQs
How do I care for an oval engagement ring?
An oval engagement ring is easy to care for. Clean it gently with warm, soapy water and a soft brush, and have the claws checked by your jeweller regularly to make sure the diamond remains secure.
Store your ring separately from other jewellery to help prevent scratches and keep the metal and diamond looking their best.
Is an oval diamond a good choice for everyday wear?
An oval diamond is an excellent choice for everyday wear. Its rounded outline has no sharp points or corners, making it a practical shape for an engagement ring worn every day.
For very active hands, a bezel or six-claw setting can provide additional security for the centre diamond.
Are oval engagement rings timeless or a trend?
Oval engagement rings are a lasting style rather than a passing trend. The oval brilliant has been cut for decades, while oval gemstones have been set in jewellery for far longer.
Ovals have become particularly popular in recent years, but the shape itself is well established and continues to be a classic choice for engagement rings.
Do oval engagement rings suit short fingers?
Oval engagement rings can be particularly flattering on shorter fingers. The elongated shape draws the eye along the finger and can create the appearance of greater length.
A slightly more elongated oval paired with a fine band can enhance this effect, although the best proportions ultimately come down to your personal preference.
Can I design a custom oval engagement ring?
You can design a custom oval engagement ring with Armans. We help you choose the diamond, then design and handmake the setting in Australia, with the process taking around four to six weeks.
Our custom engagement ring page explains how the process works.
The surest way to choose an oval is to compare a few diamonds on your own hand. Browse the collection online, or see certified diamonds in person at our showroom at 10/80 Castlereagh Street, Sydney.
About the Author
Aris Arzumanian
Aris Arzumanian is Co-Owner and Director of Armans Fine Jewellery, the family-run Sydney atelier founded by his father, Arman. With expertise in design, gem selection, and bespoke craftsmanship, Aris has helped grow Armans into one of Australia’s leading jewellery brands. Featured in Daily Mail and Man of Many, he’s recognised for modernising the business through digital innovation and client collaboration. Working alongside his father and brother Levon, Aris continues the family legacy, combining traditional artistry with contemporary design.